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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.